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Retirement Adventure
Taxco, Mexico
Amazing, awesome, overwhelming” .
. . words visitors use to describe Taxco.
As you bask in the glow of Taxco, you might confuse it with Greek
isle Santorini or the Amalfi Coast of Italy. No, you’re in Mexico,
high in the Sierra Madre, swept away by a vast cascade of pure white
stucco structures, red tiled roofs, and flowered balconies that
cling to a precarious mountainside perch.
Taxco was initially Tlachco, which in the native Nahuatl language,
meant "place where the ball is played." By 1529, the
Spaniards had forged their way to Tlachco and soon made it their
primary silver source in the New World. Equally as quickly, they
gave up the Tlachco mines for more accessible deposits elsewhere.
Tlachco’s silver lay untouched for nearly two centuries.
In 1716, José de la Borda, a Spaniard of French ancestry, was
riding his horse in the Tlachco hills. Legend has it that when the
horse kicked up some soil, he uncovered a rich silver vein. Borda
lost no time. He redeveloped the area’s mines, changed the
town’s name to Taxco, and with his new-found wealth, built the
magnificent church Santa Prisca. Success was short-lived. Borda had
overextended himself financially and had to move away. The mines lay
abandoned for two more centuries.
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In 1929, William Spratling, Professor of Architecture at Tulane
University, locked up his home in the New Orleans French Quarter to
move to Taxco. He briskly transformed this mountainside paradise
into a mecca for literati and artists similar to Gertrude Stein’s
group in Paris. The Taxco coterie included the likes of Sherwood
Anderson, John Dos Passos, Georgia O’Keefe, Diego Rivera, and
William Faulkner, Spratling’s college roommate.
Dwight Morrow, U.S. Ambassador to Mexico, ranked high among the
Taxco expats. Under his suggestion, Spratling laid down plans to
introduce silver crafting to the town. Spratling hired a nearby
goldsmith to move to Taxco in order to create silver jewelry of
Spratling’s design.
In the beginning, this former professor had to persuade townspeople
that working silver into fine jewelry was a worthy task, for the
locals found silver beneath their dignity in contrast to gold.
Gradually, and happily, Spratling converted goldsmiths into
silversmiths and built an enterprise that grew beyond all
expectations. His apprentice system enabled students to open their
own shops--all with Spratling’s support. |
And so goes the Taxco story . . .. Today, the town counts nearly
1,000 silver artisans and over 500 jewelry shops that sparkle with a
fabulous mixture of European, Aztec, Mixtec, Zapotec, and other
pre-Columbian designs, all crafted from .925 sterling. Taxco boasts
some of the best artisans in the world, many of whom studied under
Spratling.
Time has stood still for Taxco; yet Taxco has no time to stand
still. The quiet splendor that bathes the place and the endlessly
meandering cobblestone lanes disguise a bustling, bourgeois city.
Beneath the glowing, pure, white sheets that are really houses
hanging from a cliff, off-white little taxicabs tease tranquility
with the sputter of whining engines as they chug up and down
vertical streets and negotiate curves that are as steep as the
mountain. The tiny taxis are fueled by the world’s appetite for
silver. As the town scurries to fill that appetite, it produces, on
the average, 5 metric tons of jewelry every day.
On Sundays, the crafters pause to reflect at Santa Prisca. They
stand . . . Then, con gusto, they sing “Go Tell It on the
Mountain”, a launch of Sunday Services befitting a town that, from
its own ancestral mountain, is hammering out a story of workmanship
unrivalled in the world.
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The next time you step into Tiffany’s, Neiman Marcus, or Saks
Fifth Avenue and browse the silver jewelry, rest assured that the
finest pieces on display are from . . . that place on a Mexican
mountain where the Nahuatl played ball.
The Silver
Mountain; 3126 W. Cary St., #149; Richmond, VA 23221 Tel. 754-3305
(Richmond) or 1-800-774-0475; Email: gnelsongln@msn.com
Copyright, The Expansion Factor, Inc., 2001
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