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Retirement Adventure

Taxco, Mexico

Amazing, awesome, overwhelming” . . . words visitors use to describe Taxco.

As you bask in the glow of Taxco, you might confuse it with Greek isle Santorini or the Amalfi Coast of Italy. No, you’re in Mexico, high in the Sierra Madre, swept away by a vast cascade of pure white stucco structures, red tiled roofs, and flowered balconies that cling to a precarious mountainside perch.

Taxco was initially Tlachco, which in the native Nahuatl language, meant "place where the ball is played." By 1529, the Spaniards had forged their way to Tlachco and soon made it their primary silver source in the New World. Equally as quickly, they gave up the Tlachco mines for more accessible deposits elsewhere. Tlachco’s silver lay untouched for nearly two centuries.

In 1716, José de la Borda, a Spaniard of French ancestry, was riding his horse in the Tlachco hills. Legend has it that when the horse kicked up some soil, he uncovered a rich silver vein. Borda lost no time. He redeveloped the area’s mines, changed the town’s name to Taxco, and with his new-found wealth, built the magnificent church Santa Prisca. Success was short-lived. Borda had overextended himself financially and had to move away. The mines lay abandoned for two more centuries.

In 1929, William Spratling, Professor of Architecture at Tulane University, locked up his home in the New Orleans French Quarter to move to Taxco. He briskly transformed this mountainside paradise into a mecca for literati and artists similar to Gertrude Stein’s group in Paris. The Taxco coterie included the likes of Sherwood Anderson, John Dos Passos, Georgia O’Keefe, Diego Rivera, and William Faulkner, Spratling’s college roommate.

Dwight Morrow, U.S. Ambassador to Mexico, ranked high among the Taxco expats. Under his suggestion, Spratling laid down plans to introduce silver crafting to the town. Spratling hired a nearby goldsmith to move to Taxco in order to create silver jewelry of Spratling’s design.

In the beginning, this former professor had to persuade townspeople that working silver into fine jewelry was a worthy task, for the locals found silver beneath their dignity in contrast to gold. Gradually, and happily, Spratling converted goldsmiths into silversmiths and built an enterprise that grew beyond all expectations. His apprentice system enabled students to open their own shops--all with Spratling’s support.

And so goes the Taxco story . . .. Today, the town counts nearly 1,000 silver artisans and over 500 jewelry shops that sparkle with a fabulous mixture of European, Aztec, Mixtec, Zapotec, and other pre-Columbian designs, all crafted from .925 sterling. Taxco boasts some of the best artisans in the world, many of whom studied under Spratling.

Time has stood still for Taxco; yet Taxco has no time to stand still. The quiet splendor that bathes the place and the endlessly meandering cobblestone lanes disguise a bustling, bourgeois city. Beneath the glowing, pure, white sheets that are really houses hanging from a cliff, off-white little taxicabs tease tranquility with the sputter of whining engines as they chug up and down vertical streets and negotiate curves that are as steep as the mountain. The tiny taxis are fueled by the world’s appetite for silver. As the town scurries to fill that appetite, it produces, on the average, 5 metric tons of jewelry every day.

On Sundays, the crafters pause to reflect at Santa Prisca. They stand . . . Then, con gusto, they sing “Go Tell It on the Mountain”, a launch of Sunday Services befitting a town that, from its own ancestral mountain, is hammering out a story of workmanship unrivalled in the world.
 

The next time you step into Tiffany’s, Neiman Marcus, or Saks Fifth Avenue and browse the silver jewelry, rest assured that the finest pieces on display are from . . . that place on a Mexican mountain where the Nahuatl played ball.

The Silver Mountain; 3126 W. Cary St., #149; Richmond, VA 23221 Tel. 754-3305 (Richmond) or 1-800-774-0475; Email: gnelsongln@msn.com

Copyright, The Expansion Factor, Inc., 2001

 

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